I have found that people are not educated enough to make an informed decision when buying a bird cage. That’s not good, because if you are buying a decent quality bird cage it isn’t going to be cheap, and if you are paying a fair amount, you need to get the best product you can get for your money.

All of this has lead me to creating this article: “7 Things You Need To Know Before Buying A Bird Cage”

1. Is the cage you’re considering made of materials that are safe for your bird?

Have you considered the toxicity levels of minerals like Zinc & Lead in the cage you are looking at? This is your #1 priority when shopping for a bird cage. This is the very first question you have to ask! If you can’t get a straight answer, then it’s time to move on, and this is why some cages are priced so much lower than other cages. All powder-coating on regular powder-coated cages has Zinc and/or Lead in it, but good manufacturers have taken the time to discuss this issue with veterinarians and other bird experts to determine a safe level for both of these minerals and good manufacturers demand that their cages are manufactured in a manner that meets or beats these standards!

2. Is the cage you’re considering large enough to keep your bird safe, happy, & healthy?

This is a tricky issue to consider when shopping for a bird cage, but here is the rule of thumb; the bigger the cage the better, as long as the bar spacing isn’t too wide. So what is too wide of a bar spacing for your bird? Basically you don’t want your bird to be able to put it’s head between the bars, because this can cause major injuries or even death to your bird. But you also want to consider that the bigger the cage the better because studies have shown that the larger the cage, the happier & healthier the bird. For a chart that shows you what bar spacing & cage size is appropriate for your species of bird click here. Please keep in mind that all bird’s are different, even bird’s of the same species can be significantly different sizes (for example, a small Conure might fall into the Small Bird Category & a regular-sized Conure would fit into the Medium Bird Category).

3. How easy is the cage to clean?

People tend to overlook this when shopping for a bird cage, but this is arguably the most important factor to consider beyond the toxicity levels in powder-coated cages. Let me tell you why; when a cage is easy to clean it not only cuts down on the amount of time you need to spend on cleaning, it also increases the lifespan of your cage. If your cage is a major pain to clean and it takes multiple hours you will tend to put off cleaning it for longer spans of time and this will drastically shrink the lifespan of your cage (especially a powder-coated cage). Bird droppings can actually become an erosive chemical, and the longer that sits on your cage, the more damage it can do. Even the best of cages will only last 3 or 4 years if not properly cared for. And on the other hand, a properly cared for, good quality powder-coated cage can last over 10 years. So what makes a cage easy to clean? The biggest thing to look for is a cage that is sturdy, but can still be broken down easily in a matter of 1 or 2 minutes without the need for tools. All of the top quality cages have this feature. Even if you don’t plan to break your cage all the way down, it’s nice to be able to remove a portion of the cage to clean it without having to get out a tool box & spend an afternoon getting that part off & most likely damaging or destroying your cage. Good cages literally snap in & out of place with no tools required! Another great feature to look for is drainage holes in areas where moisture tends to collect, like on the bottom of each panel. This makes it so the moisture drains into the tray rather than sitting on the panel itself and eroding it. You should also shop for cages that have optional-use grates. Here’s why this is fairly important; if the grate is “optional to use” that means the bird cannot escape when it’s out. Here are two reasons that you may want to remove the grate: 1) Some people think it’s a more natural living environment if their bird lives in a cage that has a solid bottom & 2) Nothing gets dirty faster than the bottom grate & if it can be removed and quickly cleaned without creating a gap for your bird to sneak out of this is a very nice feature.

4. Please don’t buy a cage to fit into a specific tight spot in your home!

And here is why; when you get caught up with trying to squeeze a cage into a specific spot in your home this tends to take away from the well-being of your feathered friend! Let us explain; birds are a lot like humans, they need space, they need sunlight, they need to be able to look around. I recommend buying a cage with wheels so you can move your bird from time to time and give them a change of scenery (wheels are also a great feature that could be put under the ease of cleaning topic above).

5. Does your cage give your bird enough stimulation?

The two best ways to give your bird stimulation are toy hooks & removable playtops. The reason I am so fond of removable playtops is because they can be pulled off the cage and placed in a spot away from the cage. This is so great for your bird. This not only gives the bird a change of scenery, it also encourages your bird to exercise and it can give your bird a chance to get some sunlight if he is regularly in a room without that.

6. What’s the quality-level of the materials used on the cage you are looking at?

Avoid hollow bars at all costs! Any decent sized bird can bend or even chew through a hollow bird cage bar. If you are looking at quality bird cages they will be constructed of steel (the powder-coated cages should be steel underneath the powder-coating & the stainless steel cages should be 100% stainless steel, not plated) or wrought iron. There’s no such thing as a flawlessly manufactured bird cage, but there are huge differences in quality levels. Reputable companies will include long-term warranties against manufacturer defects & they will also insure your cage against shipping damages. And since there’s no such thing as a flawlessly manufactured cage, you should buy from a company that will back up their product. Don’t buy a no-name cage that will come with no manual, no support phone number, and no warranty. A reputable company will jump to make things right in the rare event that you do have a problem.

7. Functional Features & even more attention to detail!

First time bird cage buyers usually aren’t the type of people that take features & functionality into account like they should. They’ve never owned a cage so they don’t know what to look for and what to watch out for. Bird cages are the type of item that “you never buy cheap twice”. If you buy cheap once, the second time you’ll be sure to shop for cages that have features that save you from the nightmares you experienced with your first cage! Here’s a feature that’s commonly overlooked: bird-proof locks. You need a cage that your bird can’t open. Just imagine what could happen to your bird (or your home) if your bird escaped & roamed free the entire time you were out! Here’s another functional feature you’ll fall in love with; stainless steel bowls that are accessible through external doors. If your bird is a “biter” this is a must-have feature!

And there you have it! You are now more educated about bird cages than 99% of the people out there trying to figure out which one to buy. You are now armed with the knowledge you need to make an educated buying decision!

Note: This article can be copied and republished on other websites as long as it stays complete, isn’t modified, and the active hyperlinks stay in place.

Article written by Dave Hermansen, a true exotic bird lover. I urge you to research bird cages even more by visiting Everything Birds and reading the content that’s posted for their visitors.

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With a little imagination and very little effort, you can transform your backyard into a natural habitat for birds. Whether you’re an avid birdwatcher, or simply want to invite nature a little closer to your home, birdfeeders put down the welcome mat for our avian friends.

According to the Audubon Society (www.audubon.org), a bird feeder comes in one of four basic designs. Ground feeders are flat and open, have a screened bottom, and rest off the ground and should be situated ten feet from nearby trees or bushes so that birds can fly away from any predators. Ground feeders can be made squirrel proof by utilizing wire mesh over the bird feeder.

Tube birdfeeders are cylindrical in shape and typically have openings that allow birds to access the seeds. They should be hung off the ground and, for maximum enjoyment, near a window so that family members can witness the wild birds that come to visit.

Suet and hopper bird feeders are typically shaped like houses. A suet bird feeder, made for wild birds that peck at the seed mixed into the suet, is usually hung, while a hopper bird feeder can either be hung or placed on a post for easy access by wild birds. A hopper bird feeder contains a large quantity of seed, which is released when the wild bird steps on the feeder trigger. Hopper birdfeeders attract both small and large birds, including the cardinal.

Unlike the tube and hopper birdfeeders, the thistle bird feeder is designed with very small holes, allowing only small-beaked finches to access the food. Thistle birdfeeders should be hung, and can be made squirrel proof.

The Audubon Society also provides helpful tips on making your backyard friendly to hummingbirds by populating it with humming bird feeders. They suggest that you use several humming bird feeders and fill each with sugar water, being careful to avoid using red food coloring and honey. In addition, you should change the solution in the humming bird feeder weekly, or more often in hot weather.

It is certainly possible to make your own bird feeders, but there are several great birdfeeders available on the market, including those made by Droll Yankee, Opus, Woodllink, and Duncraft.

To get the most out of your bird watching experience, the Audubon Society suggests that you utilize several different types of bird feeders and that you place them at various heights and locations. In this way, you will attract a wide variety of wild birds. In addition, be sure that your efforts to create a backyard habitat don’t harm the birds you are trying to attract. Keep birdfeeders three feet away from windows to avoid collisions, and make sure to keep your cat indoors.

Chris Robertson is an author of Majon International, one of the worlds MOST popular internet marketing companies on the web.
Visit this Pets and Supplies Website and Majon’s Pets and Supplies directory.

Are you looking for some excellent food for your bird feeder? Did you know that bugs are delicious bits of food for birds, and that there are very few birds that don’t eat insects? Even birds that are classified as seed-eating or nectar-sipping will gobble up insects in a minute. Technically speaking though, spiders and earthworms are not considered to be insects but are on the main menu of many birds. When it comes to wild birds such as starlings or grackles, they eat tremendous numbers of wasps, spiders, ants and many others including grubs. So every time you set your bird feeder out or fill it up, you can rest assured that when a huge flock descends on your yard you’ll be certain to have fewer insects when the birds are gone. During the nesting season, insects are hatching all over the place, eating your flowers, fruits, and vegetables and everything else in sight, and they grow very quickly. This is the best time of the year for all of your local birds.

To balance a bird’s see diet, these young bugs and their parents provide your feathered friends with a quick, protein-filled meal for their young nestlings. After all, in addition to a bird feeder that is full of seeds, growing baby birds need soft squishy insects full of energy.

Did you know that humming birds eat small spiders and then use their webs to build their tiny nests and lay their eggs? There are so many fascinating things that we don’t know about the bird world, even those right in our own local neighborhood. If you watch birds in your yard around bird feeders or just on the ground, you will soon see that different birds find insects in various ways. Using the Internet for all of your birdseed and bird supply requirements is one way to save money.

By Terry Price- Remember to visit http://www.pet-supply-discount.com/bird-feeders.html for a great resource on all kinds of bird feeders and bird supplies.

What to start with?

First we have to consider the following:

What can I afford?

The price of on parrot varies in large bounds in dependence with the species. You can buy for example a budgie for less than 10 $. The price of the cockatiel varies between 25 and 35 $. An Amazonian parrot and grey parrot can be purchased for about 300 – 400$, cockatoo for 1,000 $…… and the price of some parrots reaches $15,000! This is one of the initial questions which you have to answer.

How much space will the bird need?

Larger birds and even some of the small ones are very active physically and need big cages and space in which to play.

Is there any free time for the bird?

Probably this is the most important question. Birds are intelligent, playful and mostly “social” creatures. Will you have time to play with your bird? To care properly of it? Will it have the chance to be a part of your family? Consider the fact that birds live fairly long. A small parrot cockatiel lives for 20 years and more! Amazona or African grey parrot can live for 50, 60 and there are documented cases for birds that lived up to the respectable age of 100 years! Can you devote to this? It is not unusual to inherit birds for previous generations. Don’t buy a bird if you think that you will soon get bored of it.

How noisy is the bird? Will the neighbors murmur?

Budgies and cockatiel are comparatively quiet. They are suitable to look after in a flat. Moluxco cockatoo could live in flat just if you have neighbors around you and six floors above / below you that like listening screams to cracking their ear – drums. The African grey parrot tends to be one of comparatively non-noisy parrots. Certainly, there are individual differences between birds. Somewhere there could be cockatoo, that don ‘ t make noisy to heaven. If really there could be found such, an enterprising person could make a fortune of it. Remember that noise is a subjective and relative sensation. A bird can be considered as “non-noisy” only at the background of another one,considered as noisy.

How “destructive” could a bird be?

Do you possess peerless old furniture? Rare books? Remember that these birds have strong beaks,. Some of them are less inclined to “ nibbling ” than others, but nibbling is completely natural behaviour for them.

Does the parrot need special food?

Lory parrots, for example, need a specialized diet. Do you have an opportunity and means to provide it? Once you have made a preliminary investigation and have decided what kind of parrot you want, you can go looking for it and buy it. NEVER, NEVER BUY A PARROT IMPULSIVELY!

Geomil Georgiev is owner and editor of http://www.birdscomfort.com where you can find information on every type of pet birds. BirdsComfort provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as cage covers, bird cage playstands, bird perches, bird toys, bird swings and bird foods

Your budgies has been bristled up for several days, shivers, its beaks grows and curves…..

The reason fro your budgie’s problem is the lack of vitamins and minerals.

As a beginning take it to the vet to cut the growths and to file away the curved beak. Don’t try to do this yourself – it should be executed by a specialist.

The next step is to buy a crayon with vitamins and minerals for it from the zoo shop. You also have to provide pine-tree twigs for it to gnaw. When there is no crayon you can replace it with chalk. It is absolutely necessary for the birds.

However you have to estimate whether the bristling up and the shivering don’t come because of having cold. This can be estimated when examining its faecals. If the bird has a cold they will be either very dark or very light than normal. If these symptoms exist you should apply the following treatment:

Take one capsule tetraulean from the chemists. Open it. Take some powder from the capsule on the point of a small knife. Dissolve this very small dose into 1-2 drops of water. After that open the beak and pour the liquid carefully inside with a dropper.

The treatment should be applied for 3 days most. After that the faecals will obtain their normal kind.

Be careful not to overdose the tetraulean.

Except for that even if the parrot has no cold you should compulsory buy vitamins for it from the zoo shop. Another reason for this condition of the feathery creature can be starvation because with a deformed beak it is most probable that the bird can’t eat millet. And only vegetables and fruit is not enough.

Give bread to your budgies as they like it a lot.
Do not keep them in a very cold or very hot place. Let the temperature be normal. Budgies don’t like humidity and draughts. This could also be a reason for deformations. And if it is possible let them fly at least a little.

Geomil Georgiev is owner and editor of http://www.birdscomfort.com where you can find information on every type of pet birds. BirdsComfort provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as cage covers, bird cage playstands, bird perches, bird toys, bird swings and bird foods

The quickest and most effective way to teach your bird to speak is to understand How birds learn to speech. If you utilize the bird’s natural inclinations and abilities, teaching your pet bird will be a much more enjoyable experience for both you and the bird. In the wild, ex. parrots are most vocal during the morning and the evening. This is when they would gather with their flock to feed and roost. Since they are inclined to be noisy at these times, it is a good idea to work with your bird then.

Parrots also pick up words much more quickly during heightened states of emotion. When the bird is excited about you returning home from work, he or she is much more likely to retain the words or phrases you repeat. Similarly, if you speak with emotion, the words will stick in the mind of the bird much easier than if you say something in a monotone, bored voice. This is why so many parrots pick up curse words. These are words that are said with emphasis and gusto and therefore the bird remembers them. It is important to remember when working with your bird, that even if your bird is retaining the words you say, he won’t necessarily repeat them right away.

In the wild, birds learn language by listening to other voices that sound like their own. If you imitate the tone of your bird’s voice, you will increase the chance that the information is retained. So if you have a Parakeet or a Cockatiel than speak to the bird in a very high, squeaky voice. If you have a Cockatoo, then it would be best to have a woman teach the birds words, since this type of bird has a smooth, female-like voice. Another great way to quickly teach your bird is to put it with other birds that speak. This is the most natural way for a bird to learn speech. A parrot can learn the whole vocabulary of another bird in one month. If you don’t have a neighbor or friend with a bird that speaks, you can purchase CDs that replicate this phenomenon. The website, Parrotsite.com offers CDs with parrot voices that speak a wide variety of phrases. The phrases are repeated several times for a few minutes at random through out the day, just like a parrot would.
… read the rest of the article on Parrotsite.com

Author: Zevs Borealis
This article is one of many featured at http://www.parrotsite.com A website dedicated to the world of Bird Lovers. Want to learn about how A Revolutionary Speech Training Method Will Change How Bird’s Learn To Talk. Subscribe and get free ebook and Funny Videos.

May not be reprinted or reproduced without permission.
Copyright © 2006 Parrotsite.com. All rights reserved. – This article is available for reprint on your ezine, website or ebook. You MUST agree NOT to make ANY changes to the article and the RESOURCE BOX MUST be included.

Bird houses are a growing avocation of late. This is becoming ever more apparent in the yards of many people, particularly on the West Coast of the United States. It goes without saying that these little shelters for the numerous aviary species have always been popular in the Midwest, and yet this area too, is showing an added increase in interest. Of the numerous houses on the market, martin bird houses are one of the most popular.

One of the reasons for the popularity of martin bird houses specifically is that martin houses are not your ordinary structures. In fact, if they can be compared to human homes, then martin bird houses are the condominiums of bird sanctuaries. Oh what legnths we will go to for our little featured friends!

This analogy is not a loose one, as these houses are rarely for single bird occupancy. In fact, a typical model can often hold ten to fifteen birds, each with its own specific compartment. Further, there are often multiple levels, each level holding ten or more birds, and often as many as twelve levels to a single “house,” which truly should be called a complex.

These large structures are not merely a point of decadence, as many might speculate. They are meant to be accommodating to birds while at the same time offering a great deal of protection form not only the elements, but predators too.

As most people know, even birds suffer adversely from the extremes of weather and temperature. Yet there are also natural enemies to consider. The average songbird, such as the purple martin, is constantly in danger from larger predator birds, such as hawks, falcons, and owls. Birds need houses too. When we provide those houses for our little friends, it not only helps them, but brings us pleasure in watching them.

Further, when looking for martin bird houses specifically, it is advisable to get one with a few different features. One of these is the ability of the buyer to clean the house easily. This is important not only as holes and rooms can become blocked up over time, but also as parasites can be transferred from bird to bird when good housekeeping is not kept up. A feature that makes cleaning easy is if the roof or back wall is easily detached to expose the multiple rooms. As well, if a bird house is kept on a pole, there will be a time that the entire house must be lowered for maintenance or cleaning. For this reason, it is advisable to get a house with a light weight construction, possibly of aluminum, along with a raising and lowering mechanism.

Keith Londrie II is a well known author and bird lover as well as the owner of Bird Houses – a unique web site for all bird lovers.

Your feathered friend deserves a safe, comfortable enclosure…here are 12 simple tips if you’re a bird lover with a companion in a cage!

Buy the largest cage you can with the correct bar spacing for your bird type.

Place perches away from locations that are above food and water containers.

Tree branches also make good perches but don’t use any part of cherry trees.

Clean all cage parts and bars to remove dust and contamination.

Add butcher paper to the bottom tray. If a grill is used on the bottom of the cage, it should be cleaned when the paper is changed.

Wipe down the bars and base of the cage as needed, and remove any faeces or food.

Check that all feeders and doors are securely closed at all times.

Change food and water when soiled, regardless of whether some remains.

Having your bird’s wing feathers trimmed may reduce the chances of escape or accident.

Select a proper location for your bird cage. Drafts are deadly to exotic birds and should be avoided. All birds need loads of indirect light or short periods of direct light.

Provide plenty of toys for your bird’s diversion while in the cage.

Allow enough free space for wing exercises.

Copyright Glenda Erceg.

This article may be used without permission as long as it is shown in its entirety with links intact.

For more bird cage resources visit http://www.forbirdcages.com/

One of the pleasures of owning a pet bird is to teach him or her tricks. However, the purpose of teaching your bird is not just for entertainment. Training will create a better behaved, more social and happier animal.

Most birds are very smart, and if taught correctly, will be able to learn a wide range of tricks. You should set a specific time to work with your pet each day. If at all possible, try to stick to that time. Birds function well with a schedule and will even come to look forward to their training time. Plus, if you practice on a regular basis, your bird will pick up the skill you are teaching much faster.

The training area should be safe and secure. Eliminate distractions so you will have the bird’s full attention. Close doors, draw curtains and turn off any music. Use a room that is brightly lit, colorful, quiet and away from its cage.

You should start the training session by socializing with your pet. Just like humans, birds learn much more quickly if they are engaged and enjoying themselves. For your bird to have fun, you shouldn’t work with him or her, if you are in a bad mood or overly tired. Your attitude will negatively affect the bird and your time together. Begin by talking with your bird in a cheerful, but calm voice.

Smile and don’t make any sudden or fast movements. You can also choose to offer your pet a small treat right off the bat to signal that this is an enjoyable time. To keep it fun, it is important to not tire the bird by an overly long training session. Young birds, even ones that look fully mature, often tire more quickly than adults. You should only work with young birds for about five minutes. Older pets can usually take 10 minutes.

If your bird is untrained, the first trick you should teach him is “step-up.” This is a relatively easy one to learn and will make moving and transporting your bird must easier. Before you teach this maneuver make sure you have followed all the above recommendations.

When you are ready, slowly move your hand towards the bird. Then you should softly press your pointer finger to the bird’s lower stomach and say in a friendly and calm voice, “step up.” (If the bird is too large to perch on your finger, you can use your arm). In most cases, the bird will automatically step up onto your finger. Eventually, he or she will come to recognize your words as the cue to step onto your hand or arm.

When your bird completes this trick or any other trick successfully make sure you praise them! The reward that they receive is what teaches birds that they are doing what you want and it gives them motivation to continue to follow your commands. Besides verbal praise, you should offer your bird a treat. You can use a special food such as a piece of fruit or vegetable, or a favorite toy that is reserved especially for the times when the bird has learned a new trick. If you give your birds lots of praise and encouragement, then he will learn quickly and be eager for the next lesson.

Once a trick is learned, you should regularly ask your bird to perform the trick so that it is not forgotten. You can use daily activities to sneak in practice. For example, when you are cleaning the cage, ask your pet to step up onto your hand, instead of letting him just pull himself up on the bars.

If you remember to follow all of these guidelines and exercise patience, you will be sure to have a pet with an impressive set of tricks.

This article is one of many featured at href="http://www.parrotsite.com">Teach Your Parrot To Talk training course A website dedicated to the world of Bird Lovers. Want to learn about how A Revolutionary Speech Training Method Will Change How Bird’s Learn To Talk.

Copyright © 2006 Parrotsite.com. All rights reserved. – This article is available for reprint on your ezine, website or ebook. You MUST agree NOT to make ANY changes to the article and the RESOURCE BOX MUST be included.

Before setting the bird into its “ lodging ” you should do something else

Never the less that the bird cage is new , and the perches are ecologically clean , they should be disinfected carefully . I call this operation “carbonation ”, because as a “disinfectant” gas for burning is used , and gas for cigarette lighters can be used but it can be quite expensive .

How to proceed :

Wash both the bird cage and the wooden sticks with soap and hot water.

Leave them dry well especially the sticks because they soak with water and drench.

Prepare the gas and a cloth with which to put the gas over the perches and the bird cage. It is compulsory to put gloves ( surgery or household for washing plates ), otherwise you hands will smell awful.

Slightly damp the cloth , but not to drop gas from it , and carefully rub the bird cage everywhere and the perches . Now the bird cage and the perches are absolutely ready to be completed and to put the bird inside .

The disinfection is very useful for the bird because when it steps on the “ carbonated ” perches , a part of the gas gets soaked into its legs and then when scouring themselves it goes on its feathers.

It is good at least once or twice to clean the perches with gas and to change them. That is why I told you in the beginning to provide yourselves with wooden sticks .

To clean the bird cage with gas is more difficult , because you are supposed to have a spare ” lodging ” for the bird, where to put it temporarily . Nothing prevents you from cleaning the bird cage periodically with a cloth damped with gas without washing it with soap

Geomil Georgiev is owner and editor of http://www.birdscomfort.com where you can find information on every type of pet birds. BirdsComfort provides detailed information in decorative, large, custom, acrylic, antique, wooden, and discount bird cages sale, as well as cage covers,bird cage playstands, bird perches, bird toys, bird swings and bird foods