I expect that you believe that you are doing the best you can for your pet by buying a cat flea collar for her? I certainly do but have you noticed how long they seem to work for? They don’t seem to last for a day let alone the three or four months that they are supposed to. I’ve no idea why this is the case but I can suggest some different ways of dealing with the problem.

Something else that I don’t like about cat flea collars, or dog flea collars is that they contain poison to kill the fleas. This poison can affect humans by causing irritation or soreness. If these cat collars can do this to humans then what are they doing to your beloved pet?

What else can you do about the fleas? There are shampoos that are designed to kill fleas. Try them out, if your cat will let you that is. Personally I’ve never met a cat that likes getting wet, they turn into alien teeth and claw monsters, so trying to give her a shampoo is out of the question. Oh and if you do have a go at this, don’t expect your cat to talk to you again for the next few days.

My vet recommends treating cats with a product that stops the fleas reproducing. You need to apply this substance to the back of your cat’s neck every 3 months for it to be effective. You have to remember that this does not kill the fleas but it does stop them multiplying so you should see a reduction in fleas after a few months. You can make this happen a lot quicker if you remove the fleas by combing them out.

If you love your cat as much as I love mine then you will find that there is nothing better than a daily use of the flea comb. I find it soothing and a great stress reliever. I think that my cat likes it too even though she will tell me off if I do it for too long. If your cat has a flea problem then you will see them on the comb. The hard part is catching and killing them before they vanish by jumping away. When you catch them you must crush them in between two hard surfaces.

Don’t forget to treat your carpets and furniture. Fleas will jump off your cat and live in your carpets and furniture until another animal comes along. It’s very important that you spray everything with a suitable anti-flea spray. Make sure that you follow the instructions on the label before you use it.

So if your pet has fleas then consider using some of the remedies that I’ve mentioned above before you go out and buy a cat flea collar.

Steve is a software engineer, a cat lover and owner of http://www.thecatcollar.com

It all started about two years ago, just after Christmas. We had put out three cats – Pansy, Bonnie and Clyde into a cattery for a few days while we went off for Christmas, not something we do often, but it was a bit of a treat.

Upon our return, we noticed Bonnie, who was then twelve years-old was looking a bit thin, but we put it down to her pining for us, and not having her usual eating opportunites. However, over the next few days, Bonnie’s weight plummeted, and she was looking very sorry for herself. When she started wetting herself, a thing no self-respecting cat would ever knowingly do, we immediately took her to the vet.

After a day of tests, the results came back, and we found out she was diabetic. The prognosis was not good. The vet was talking to us as if there really wasn’t much hope, and that her future life would revolve around food at a particular time and insulin a certain number of hours after.

Now, anyone with more than one cat will tell you that it is impossible to feed one cat, and not another, particularly as our brood have always been used to free access to food. The vet’s description of how meticulous one has to be when home administering insulin was also quite frightening – too small a dose and the cat would suffer with low blood sugar, and too much, the complete opposite. Added to this Bonnie is a small cat anyway, so the error either way could easily be fatal.

Doom and gloom – Bonnie’s future was not looking good, although she had sterted to eat again, and was putting on a little weight. The vet decided to try Glibinese tablets, initally only half a tablet a day.

After a few weeks, Bonnie went to the vet for some more blood tests – blood sugar still high – suggested we try half a tablet twice a day. Bonnie was very stressed from having blood taken. So, we tried her on two half tablets for a couple of days, but she didn’t seem herself at all, so we went back to one half, and all is well.

She drinks water like it’s going out of fashion, and eats more food than the dog does, but there has been no smell of ketones (a tell-tale sign of high blood sugar – smells a bit like nail polish remover), and she seems to be thriving.

We go down to the vet every three months for a check-up, and she gets her supply of Glibinese, and all is well.

To summarise from our experiences:

feline diabetes need not be a death sentence;

some cats can have their blood sugar controlled well with Glibinese rather than insulin;

try to stick to the same time of day, every day, for giving medication;

ensure that a large bowl of water is available at all times, and a litter tray;

food should be freely available for the cat;

give your cat even more love and affection than you used to;

check for ketones on the cat’s breath – if you do smell them, it’s time to call the vet!

I hope you’ve found my experience of feline diabetes useful – Bonnie is as well now as she was previously, and is happily enjoying the golden years of her life aged fourteen!

Good luck with your cats!

Lorna is an avid reader of internet articles and has started writing her own articles.

Please visit the new article directory at
http://www.zerocostarticles.co.uk, where you can submit your own articles.

All pets need “a place to be” bed that is comforting, and that will not contribute to potential health problems for your pet. There are some important things to remember when choosing the best, affordable, bed for your pet.

The materials that are used in the pet beds are very important. They will vary with the marketing edge that the manufacturer perceives as wanted by the customer. Reactions to certain materials can be harmful to susceptible pets, and cause unacceptable behaviors of chewing or soiling their beds.

Thankfully, pet bed choices, for dogs and cats, have evolved to the benefit of the animals over the last decade. No longer is the “cheap” bed thought to be acceptable for family pets. Various style gimmicks have come along that look cute to the consumer, but can prove to be impractical and unused by the pet.

It is best to purchase a well made bed, that is pet pleasing. More money can actually be spent replacing beds that disintegrate when washed, or beds that are unused by picky pets.

Be sure to choose a pet bed that is made with non-allergenic materials. The inner part of the bed should also be of non-allergenic material. Some beds are made with cedar filling, with the “promotional edge” promising to repel fleas. These are mostly ineffective, and can cause allergic reactions to those pets that are susceptible. Fleas are best kept away by spraying the environment, bathing the pet, and washing ALL of the pet bedding.

Pet beds with removable zipper covers only encourage those pets who like to chew and destroy their beds.

The hard foam constructed beds, with removable covers, are problematic because they give off an odor that encourages chewing and will not conform to the pet at rest. You can never wash the foam, and will never have a thoroughly clean bed.
Most of the covers of these removable beds will shrink when washed and dried, and are hard to put back on, if they are even still usable.

A pet bed that meets the profile of a perfect pet bed, is the WallyBed. It was developed to eliminate all the problem features of traditional pet beds. WallyBeds are available in five styles, with a variety of sizes in each style, meeting the need of most pets. They are made of acrylic faux fur, which is comforting to pets, and filled with 100% non-allergenic polyester filler, creating a heavenly feel of softness that most pets can not resist. WallyBeds are made with quality materials that endure many washings. The designer faux fur prints, and solid faux furs, enhance the pet’s beauty when closely matched with the pet’s coloring. WallyBeds are popular with home decorators because of the way they blend easily with any decor.

Complete information can be found on www.wallybed.com, along with authorized dealers. The “customer satisfaction” photos and comments attest to the wonders of WallyBed.

Copyright, Max Enterprises 2006

Maxine Scott, creater of WallyBed Pet Beds, began her business, Max Enterprises, in 1991. The frustration she felt, and the need for better beds for her dogs and cats, inspired her innovative creations. In addition to the beds being wonderfully accepted by her pets, the pets of friends and family also found them to be alluring and marketable. Soon after the trademarked pet bed name, WallyBed, was introduced to the market, new industry standards followed. To date, no other manufacturer has been able to touch the impressive appeal of WallyBed.
Maxine takes pride in the fact that WallyBeds are produced in the USA, and that customers really get their money’s worth.
She says her “satisfied customers” are really the pets themselves, who demonstrate to their owners how much they love them. WallyBed Pet Beds, by Max Enterprises, were first produced in Austin, Texas, but the company has since relocated to Houston, Texas. WallyBeds can be found in specialty pet shops across the nation, or on the official web site http://www.wallybed.com.

Cute, cuddly kittens bring joy to any home. Unfortunately, they don’t bring with them the innate knowledge of litter box usage. It’s up to you, the owner, to train them. The process can be a long, frustrating experience. Not to mention a smelly one.

Untrained kittens or untrained rescue cats aren’t the only cause of feline odor problems. Cats, both male and female, neutered or whole, are capable of scent-marking their territory. And de-clawed cats are more likely to scent mark than fully armed cats.

Urine and scent spray both leave an undesirable odor for cat owners to deal with. What’s worse, the cats tend to be creative when they mark their territory. Places to find scent spray include walls, doors, door frames, window frames, outside door thresholds, entrance ways, above and behind kitchen cabinets, behind baseboards and on door trim. The unpainted bottoms of wood doors are also a popular place for scent spray to accumulate.

Despite the wide range of possible problem areas, eliminating these urine and scent spray odors is relatively easy. Just don’t paint over the areas, and do your best to locate all of the offending areas.

One effective way to locate these areas is with a black light. The black light will cause the phosphor salts in the scent spray to light up as a pale, yellowish-green mark that looks like the cat applied it with a squirt gun. Stick a thumb tack about two inches above every mark you find to help you keep track of all the locations.

Mix up a 16 ounce trigger spray bottle of OdorXit Concentrate using 1 ounce of Concentrate and 15 ounces of water. Now spray the marked areas with two to four pumps of the product and let it dry naturally. These scent marks often take two to five applications over as many days to remove all the odor.

OdorXit Concentrate neutralizes the odor-causing residue so that the urine residue no longer produces the odors. This Concentrate must come in direct contact with all the cat urine residue to eliminate all of the odor. Odors caused by cat urine in hardwood flooring, sub-flooring, concrete, dirt, gravel, fabric, clothing, upholstery and most other surfaces are effectively and permanently removed.

Another approach to eliminating the odors is through using OdorXit Magic. This product uses a “gas absorbing” technology to attract, trap and eliminate cat urine odors from the air. When sprayed on flooring, carpeting, upholstery, and most other surfaces and materials, OdorXit Magic absorbs the gasses (odors) coming from the cat urine. This process continues for 2 to 12 weeks depending on the amount of odor being produced and the amount of sun shining on the area.

No matter which OdorXit product you choose to use, one thing is certain: your cat odor problem will be eliminated.

***
Copyright 2006 Listening Systems Inc.

Martin R Meyer is the President of Listening Systems, Inc., and OdorXit is the registered trademark of Listening Systems. Their mission is to provide the highest quality, safest odor-control products at a reasonable price and to offer the best available advice on solving odor problems, even if you don’t use their products. Visit http://www.odorxit.com for a full list of OdorXit products as well as valuable information on solving a wide range of odor problems.

Cat health is something all cat owners should know something about. You can improve and maintain the health of your cat, and doing this takes little time and effort. Cat health problems do arise, and in turn cat health questions are very common among cat owners. The reward for getting answers to these questions and solving these problems is insuring your cat is happy and healthy, and provides you with years of enjoyment and unconditional love. Cat health awareness begins the moment you acquire your feline, just by getting to know their habits and personalities. The logic behind this is that somewhere down the road, when you notice your cat has a sudden change in behavior, eating habits and sleeping habits, there is a good chance your cat has some sort of health issue.

It is a good practice to schedule a yearly check up at the vet to make sure there are no health concerns. Cat health can be maintained at home by simply examining your cat while you pet, play with or cuddle on the couch with him or her. Check for lumps, ticks or any other type of abnormality. The more often you do it, the easier it will become to spot any kind of change. If you notice a lump, black specs in the ears, eye gunk or a rash, you should consult the local veteranarian. These regular examinations are very important, because the sooner you notice the problem, the easier it will be to treat.

Grooming also plays a big role in cat health. The more often you groom him or her, the better off they will be. By grooming, you shoud remove a lot of dead hair, and there are combs specially made to extract ticks and fleas from your cats fur. Pay attention to your cats claws as well, as they sometimes require a quick trim. It’s fairly easy to clip your cats nails, but make sure you know how to properly perform this treatment and not cutting them too short. There are plenty of books on cat health at your local book store, and every cat owner should have one to consult every now and then. Owning a pet is a responsibility, and a responsible owner takes the time to do their best to make sure that pet is healthy.

Dean Cecere is a successful author and regular contibutor of resourceful articles helping pet owners keep their pets happy and healthy.

For all of your pet needs, please visit us at Pet-Supplies-Guide.Com. A leading resource guide focused on helping pets and their owners. Pet beds, toys, medications, insurance, grooming and a whole lot more.

Thank you and please feel free to use this article. Keeping the above link active is greatly appreciated.

Cats experience much the same symptoms as we do when we have a cold. They get snotty runny noses, runny eyes, sneezing, temperature etc. And like humans they also are susceptible
to the sinus and chest infections that are sometimes the result with a humans cold.

These infections are called secondary infections. It is important that when your kitten gets a cold that they receive the proper treatment.

Your cat cannot blow it’s nose, so you need to keep the mucous and discharge clean by wiping the nose as needed with a damp, warm rag or tissue. Be gentle!

Just like in humans, a cat cold will last from 7 to 10 days.

Many cats will also refuse to eat when having a cold. One reason for this is that cats like to smell their food first, and with a runny nose, it’s rather hard to pick up the scent.

Be very careful about dehydration! If your kitty is not eating and is becoming dehydrated, buy some canned cat food. It is 75 to 80% moisture and has a hearty smell to it.

Yes, cats cough. They wheeze, sneeze, and sniffle too; and most of it sounds like it does in people. You’re best alternative when your cat displays symptoms is to contact your local veterinarian or veterinary hospital, especially if your cat is displaying the more severe of these symptoms, or has other symptoms not listed in this article. Most of these places are willing to talk with you over the phone and may ease your concerns, but will suggest an office visit to make sure that your cat is not suffering from something more severe than a common cold.

I know that the information above, and a call to my veterinarian, recently saved my cat’s life. . My veterinarian informed me that I should not wait until my appointment coming up with him in two days, but should seek medical help immediately. I’m glad I did. My cat went into severe respiratory distress. With out the medication provided at the veterinary hospital, I would have watched helplessly as my cat died a painful death. This was thankfully not the case.

Kim Babcock is an author on 1. http://www.Writing.Com/ which is a site for Writers. Her portfolio can be found at http://kimberlyb1968.Writing.Com/ so stop by and read for a while.

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Has this ever happened to you? Your cat’s peeing outside the litter box, and you’re desperately trying to clean up after your cat, wondering if you’re actually doing anything to stop it from happening in the first place!

Well, if you’re like me, you probably want some quick solutions to the problem, or at least a list of checkpoints that you know you must, like a detective on a trail, work through, to get the litter box behavior problem under control.

By the time you finish this article, you will have learnt the 7 most important steps you must know, when it comes to this problem of the cat peeing outside the litter box.

Firstly, let’s have a look at the reasons why this happens. The reasons for peeing outside the litter box are:

1. A medical problem.

2. The cat that has never been properly house trained to use the litter box in the first place.

3. Problems with the litter tray itself.

4. An unpleasant event that occurred while the cat was at the litter box.

5. A temporary physical or emotional stress, or change in the household causing the cat to urinate in an area outside the box, which is perpetuated by the urine smell reminding the cat to return to the same area over and over again.

6. Old age causing a cat to not be easily able to get to the litter box.

Now, keep these causes in mind, when checking out the 7 action steps:

1. If there’s a change in toilet behavior with no obvious cause, it may be caused by illnesses such as urinary tract infections, blocked anal glands, worms and parasites, diabetes and tumors. These illnesses may have no other obvious signs, apart from this urination problem. So you must consider a visit to the vet. In other cases you may see symptoms such as lethargy, blood in the urine, diarrhea, or constant licking in the anal area. If you see this, then your first stop is the vet!

2. Look at the litter box itself. Ensure you’re cleaning out the waste once or twice a day, and changing the litter every 3-4 days for non-clumping litter (2-3 weeks for clumping litter). Clean the tray with hot water and mild detergent, without any strong odors such as citrus or ammonia, which will repel the cat from the box. If you have multiple cats, remember – the number of trays should equal number of cats, plus one or two. If you’ve changed brands of litter, this may have caused the problem as many cats dislike this change, especially to scented litter. Return to the older litter. If you want to change, introduce unscented litter gradually by mixing the old with the new over 2 weeks. And ensure that the location of the box is acceptable: no loud noises, has some privacy, and is not in view of other cats.

3. Consider adding in 1 more litter box to another suitable private location of the house. This is because sometimes it’s not the litter box that’s the problem, but a negative experience there. For example, if your kids played with the cat while she was on the litter box, or if the cat had pain when urinating, such as during a urine infection, after having kittens, or had a procedure done on the bladder or urethra at the vet, then the cat would associate pain with that litter box. Even if the pain is gone, the association and is still there.

4. Thoroughly clean the area that has been peed on. This is important because no matter what the cause, the fact that the urine remains on the bed, carpet, or sofa is a reminder for the cat to return to pee there. The cat’s sense of smell is more acute than ours, so ensure you clean with a solution such as Brampton’s Simple Solution. If you have remaining urine smell together with a bad association at the box, then you have 2 forces causing the problem to continue. So get rid of both!

5. Next, if possible, deny the cat access to the area that is peed on, especially if it’s an area that is repeatedly used. Many people forget to do this, and their problem is prolonged. By stopping access, the cycle of repeated urination is stopped. Will the cat pee somewhere else? Possible, though less likely if you provide a second litter box, show him where it is a few times, and also do the step 7 below.

6. If you can’t stop the cat from accessing the area, make the area less attractive for peeing instead. You can do this by either placing a scent, or, by placing a bowl of dried cat food there. If using a scent, try citrus or eucalyptus. If using dried food, which often works better, ensure that you top up the food bowl during the day. Either way, once you have success, continue for another 1-2 weeks to ensure it stays that way.

7. If you’re at home when the cat is, then you have this step up your sleeve as well: the startle technique. Only do this method if you actually catch the cat about to urinate because if you do it at any other time, that cat will not be able to associate that urinating in the area with the unpleasant startle. Startle the cat with a loud “No!” or clap of the hands. Wait 5 minutes, then bring the cat to the litter tray, and if she toilets at the tray, reward her with praise and a food treat. As long as the length and enjoyment of the reward if far greater than the startle, this will be unlikely to cause stress. Use this method carefully as some cats may experience stress with it. Make sure that the cat seems relaxed after the food treat, and that it’s actually improving the situation.

If you follow the above steps, most problems of peeing outside the litter box will be solved within days or gradually improve over 1-2 weeks.

Remember in all cases, you’ll be even more effective if you reduce stress at the same time. This means more play time and attention.

In conclusion, it does take some effort and detective work to see what has caused the litter box behavior problem in the first place. And you now know how to apply 7 essential steps to help you solve this issue, as quickly and effectively as possible.

If you’d like to learn more advanced tips on solving your cat’s litter box behavior problem, go to the website described in the resource box below:

About The Author:

Cassandra Mandello helps you to go from cat novice, to successfully training your cat in no time. To learn more valuable cat training techniques, visit this site to learn more tips on understanding cat behavior, and lots more!

You love your new cat, but he’s clawing and scratching all your furniture! The immediate resolution that comes to mind is to have him declawed, but before you rush into this you should think long and hard for declawing a cat is not a simple procedure – it is a major surgery involving surgical amputation of the first joint of a cat’s toe.

Declawing is a painful surgery for your cat. While your cat will get pain medication for his after surgery recovery, the tips of the nerves need time to heal and he can be in pain for weeks or even months until this has happened. This can cause your cuddly little kitty to become highly irritable and aggressive.

Not only that, but the claws are a cats chief chief weapon of defense. Sure, you take every precaution to make sure your cat doesn’t get outside, but what if something happens and he finds himself alone in the elements facing other animals?

There will always be occasions when a cat may be confronted by other cats or dogs. Then, it will find it impossible to strike back, because it has no claws. To use its teeth, it needs to get close to its attacker, which may not happen. A declawed cat therefore become a helpless victim in front any aggressor.

Declawing can also lead to problems in the litter box. Declawed cats sometimes avoid the litter box and choose the softer carpet instead since it is painful for them to dig into the litter. Declawing can also lead to biting problems. Since this is their second line of defense, some cats may resort to deep biting to make up for their lack of claws. Even during play, your cat can no longer scratch as a warning and may be prone to biting now instead.

Claws and toes also provide exercise to your cat. When a cat stretches horizontally on a carpet or vertically with a tail scratching post, it pulls and stretches its muscles by grabbing the carpet or post with its claws. As a matter of fact, the cat’s claws play a large and positive role in its extraordinary muscle tone and agility.

Finally, declawing can cause joint problems later on in your cats life. Cats walk on their toes so the absence of claws can affect all the joints of the leg resulting in arthritis of the hip and other joints later.

But you don’t have to sacrifice your furniture in order to save your cat the pain of declawing. With time and patience you can train your cat to scratch in a more desirable area. Make sure you invest in a scratching post or accessory that your cat likes. Mine loves the simple corrugated cardboard slabs that you can buy in any pet store.

Watch your cat carefully and you will see a pattern of when and where he likes to scratch the most. Put the scratching post in the room where he likes to scratch and wait for him to scratch in his usual place. When you see him starting to scratch distract him and lead him over to the scratching post. Praise him when he uses the post and say “Bad Kitty” when he uses the furniture. Eventually he will start to favor the post – you just have to make him think it was his idea!

Lee Dobbins is a cat owner and animal lover. Visit Cats at the Family Webzone for more tips and info on cats.

Babesiosis, also called piroplasmosis, is a type of anemia caused by parasites that can be transmitted to dogs or cats by ticks. It can also be transmitted by direct blood contact, such as when dogs fight with each other, and it can be transmitted from a mother to pups or kittens. Anemia, or a shortage of red blood cells, leads to other symptoms such as fever, low energy levels, and in severe cases, shock and death. If your cat or dog develops intermittent fever, anorexia, or loses energy rapidly, and especially if you live in an area where ticks are common, you should consider the possibility that your pet has babesiosis.

The disease is spread to dogs by two different species of ticks and to cats by several species. It is found in North and South American as well as Africa and Asia. Young dogs and cats are more likely to be infected than older animals, since some immunity can develop as cats and dogs mature. However, infections in older animals are more likely to be fatal. The most severe cases tend to occur in uninfected older animals who are brought into an area in which the disease occurs after living in a disease-free area previously. Babesiosis is especially common in Pit Bull terriers and in any dogs or cats with a history of fighting.

Your veterinarian can diagnose babesiosis with a blood test, but it can be hard to detect during certain stages of its development. Actually seeing the disease-causing protozoans in a smear of blood under a microscope provides a clear diagnosis, but in the absence of visible pathogens, other tests such as immunofluorescence and PCR analysis can be used. You veterinarian will likely consider the possibility that infected animals may also be infected with other tick-borne diseases at the same time and will arrange appropriate treatment.

Treatment of babesiosis can be successful if the disease is caught early. Imidocarb dipropionate is the most commonly used and successful medicine for babesiosis, but in some countries diminazene aceturate is also used. Combination therapy with atovaquone and azithromycin is sometimes useful when an infection has become chronic or fails to respond to the first treatment provided. In extremely serious cases, blood transfusion can be helpful. Although they are not available in the United States, in some countries vaccines are used to prevent babesiosis.

Tick control is very important, not only to prevent babesiosis, but also to prevent other diseases that can be spread by ticks. Dogs and cats who live in tick-infested areas and are allowed to be outside should be checked daily for ticks. Topical treatments are available for both dogs and cats that can be used to reduce tick bites, and in severely infested areas, spraying the outdoor areas frequented by your pets can help reduce exposure to ticks. Like most diseases, preventing babesiosis is better than treating it.

For more information on this and other topics related to care and training of your pets, visit http://www.trainyourdogsncats.com.

Buying toys from your local pet shop can be expensive, and after the money you spend on it, your cat either tears the toy to pieces in a couple of hours or turns its nose up completely!

Why not save your money and entertain your cat with the following things you can find around your own home?

String!

I guarantee all cats love string. As it wiggles along the ground, moving fast and slow, it triggers your cat’s hunting mechanism and makes a great plaything.

A great idea is to tie a long piece of string to a stick, so you can drag it along the ground and tease your pet while sitting comfortable in a chair.

Paper!

Other than the sound of pet food, nothing perks my cats ears up like the sound of paper being rolled into a ball. A ball of paper about the size of a ping-pong ball is ideal for your cat to chase around the house. They absolute love it.

Similar thing to use for ball pet toys are rolled up sweet wrappers and small balls of foil.

Rope!

One of the most versatile products you can use to make different cat toys and activities.

It’s great to wrap around a post to make your very own cat scratch post and can be pined to pieces of board to make scratch boards that can be mounted on a wall inside or out.

These are just some of the things you can find inside your home to entertain your pet, without having to spend a lot of money in pet shops on toys and pet accessories.

Jasper Page is an Animal lover at heart and helps run http://www.DevonPets.co.uk, a pet site for all the pet owners in Devon and the South-West of England, and the whole world. Vist http://www.DevonPets.co.uk to have a chat.